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Eyelash Extensions: What Volume, Length, and Effect to Choose?


Eyelash extensions make your gaze deep and expressive and jazz up the whole look. But that’s not all. The right volume, length, and bend of extensions can help to improve your eye shape and conceal droopy eyelids. Let’s talk about types and possible effects of eyelash extensions.

Eyelash Extension Techniques

Beauty salons offer different eyelash extension services. The techniques differ slightly in materials and the adhesive formula.

During the procedure, a lash technician uses an adhesive formula and two pairs of tweezers: one to separate natural eyelashes and another one to attach extensions.

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There are two basic eyelash extension methods:

  • Classic. Classic eyelashes are individually applied to natural lashes in the 1:1 ratio. This procedure takes more time (up to three hours) and is more expensive, but it’s worth it as you get fuller eyelashes that still look natural. They last from two to six weeks.
  • Volume. Bundles of 3-5 eyelashes are attached to the eyelash line. This is a faster and cheaper procedure, but volume lashes last from just several days to up to 2-3 weeks.

You can get eyelash extensions not only on the upper, but also on the lower eyelid, which makes the eyes appear larger even without makeup.

Choosing Eyelash Extensions

Eyelash extension are classified by:

  • composition;
  • length;
  • thickness;
  • bend.


‘Mink’, ‘faux mink’, ‘silk’ — we often hear these terms from lash technicians. However, this doesn’t mean that your extensions will be from fur or silk, as natural materials can cause allergies. All eyelash extensions are made from hypoallergenic synthetic materials and owe their ‘natural’ names to their characteristics: softness, a glossy or matte effect, and length.

Tip: When you’re deciding on the type of extensions, consult with your lash technician. It’s important to go to a skilled professional.

Lash extensions are usually made of:

  • polyester;
  • PBT fiber.

Synthetic eyelashes are safe, resistant to heat and moisture, don’t fade in the sun, are light and consistent in color.

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The length of artificial eyelashes ranges from 4 to 20mm. Specialists usually use 6-13mm lashes for the upper eyelid and 4-6mm ones for the lower eyelid.

Important! Specialists warn that extensions over 12mm long can be too heavy and can damage your natural lashes.


The thickness of eyelashes ranges from 0.03 to 0.25mm. The thinner the lashes, the more natural your look will be. Extensions that are 0.18-0.25mm thick can be dangerous for your natural lashes and are used rarely.


The volume of eyelashes with extensions is also defined by their shape. The sharper the bend, the more expressive the gaze.

There are the following types of extension bends:

  • J — an almost unnoticeable curl at the tip. It’s mostly used for lower eyelashes, or to add fullness, not length to upper eyelashes.
  • B — a very natural curl that is used to enhance your natural lashes.
  • C — looks like slightly curled lashes. This is the most common option.
  • CC — lashes have a more defined curl and are more appropriate for festive occasions.
  • D — highly curled lashes that almost touch eyebrows and don’t look that natural.
  • U — a very prominent bend that is used to achieve a doll-like effect.
  • L — only the tip of the lash is curled. It’s a great option for heavy eyelids and people who wear glasses.
  • M — falls in between L and D.

Related story: Can You Wear Eyelash Extensions with Contact Lenses?

When you choose the bend, take into account the natural bend, thickness, and fullness of your eyelashes. If the difference is too stark, you may end up with a messy look.


Volume of Eyelash Extensions

Before going to a salon, study different types of extension volume and compare them to your own. For example, classic volume might be too much on naturally thick eyelashes and too little on short and sparse eyelashes.

Classic or full

One artificial lash is attached to every natural one along the entire lash line.


Extensions are attached to every other lash or only to the corners of the eye. This method is great for thick, yet short natural lashes.


In this method, a lash technician attaches alternately one or two lashes to every natural lash. This can help to adjust the shape of the eyes.


Artificial lashes are attached to natural ones in the 2:1 ratio. It looks pretty natural and will suit people with average eyelash thickness.


In this case, the ratio is 3:1. This is a go-to option for fans of big expressive eyes.

Hollywood Volume: 4D, 5D, 6D

In this case, the ratio is 4-8 artificial eyelashes to one natural lash. This look is definitely not for everyday wear, but for a special occasion, for example, a stage performance.


In extensions with eyelash clusters, the focus is most often on the outer corner of the eye. This method is very flattering for almond-shaped eyes as it makes the gaze wider. In addition, this technique will help to conceal droopy eyelids.

Eyelash Extension Effects

Before making an appointment for eyelash extensions, decide on the effect you want to get.

Here are the options:

  • Natural. A lash technician highlights the natural curl, enhancing your natural eyelashes with 6-10mm long extensions. This effect suits everyone and comes in volumes from classic to 3D.
  • Fox eyes. The length of artificial lashes varies from short in the inner corner to long in the outer corner of the eye. This type is for women with round or close-set eyes.
  • Doll eyes. To create a Barbie’s look, lash technicians use only lashes that are 12-15mm long and attach them to every natural eyelash from the outer to the inner corner of  the eye. This effect suits almond-shaped and wide-set eyes.
  • Squirrel eyes. The longest lashes are attached above the pupil, closer to the outer corner, creating a sort of a tuft. The rest of the eyelash line is filled with short lashes. It’s perfect for narrow, downturned, and hooded eyes.
  • Radiant (sparse). This effect is about natural-looking and not too voluminous eyelashes. A lash technician alternates long and short lashes, which looks good on almond-shaped eyes.
  • Cat eyes. Short lashes are attached from the inner corner to the center of the eyelash line, and long ones go to the outer corner. It suits everyone.
  • Kim K lashes. This effect was popularized by Kim Kardashian. The eyelashes look deliberately messy. This option is for daring personalities.

Choosing Eyelash Extensions by Shape of Your Eyes

It’s often difficult to choose the volume and effect of eyelash extensions that would flatter your appearance. We have compiled a table to help you.

Eye shape Desired result Type, effect, bend of eyelash extensions
round elongating the eyes cat eyes
close-set making eyes appear wider apart cat eyes
wide-set making the eyes more round full volume
narrow making the eyes bigger cat eyes
hooded adding depth to the gaze bunches, L-bend
deep-set creating the ‘open eyes’ effect doll eyes, bunches
upturned highlighting the shape fox eyes (full volume)
downturned adding depth to the gaze squirrel eyes (full volume)

Colorful Eyelash Extensions: What You Need to Know

Classic lash extension colors are black and brown. However, for a photoshoot, a special event, or just for an eye-popping and eccentric look, you can go for colorful lashes.

  • Single-color — one color along the entire eyelash line.
  • Ombre — the roots remain black, and the tips are painted a bright color.
  • Multicolor — features several different shades that transition into each other along the eyelid. Rainbow lashes are a popular option.
  • Speckled — patches of bright colorful eyelashes along the eyelid.
  • Colored corners — colorful eyelashes in the outer corner of the eye.

When choosing the color of your lashes, make sure it matches with the colors of your eyes and hair:

  • brown will suit blondes and redheads;
  • gray is for beauties with fair hair and blue eyes;
  • green will highlight green eyes of a redhead;
  • blue is a great option for brunettes;
  • purple will flatter gray, green, brown, and blue eyes;
  • pink is for everyone;
  • white is a versatile color that is especially popular during winter holidays;
  • red and burgundy look great in combination with dark hair.

If you’re looking to get eyelash extensions, it’s important that you find a good specialist. A professional lash technician will tell you all about the process, different volumes, which type suits the shape of your eyes and the state of eyelashes, recommend the right length, bend, and effect, and do everything perfectly. And you’ll get beautiful eyelashes that will last long and look stunning.

For examples of stunning eyelashes with extensions, visit the theYou gallery.

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